I just missed my last sunrise by 10 minutes. Shame. By the time I wandered in to the lounge at 6.25am the sun was casting a gorgeous red/orange glow into the room. I couldn't get back to sleep so I stayed up. G&M had to pop out to sort something out with the bakkie, and Gail arrived to see us before we left.
It was a beautiful, hot sunny day. We had breakfast and then sat in the garden chatting all morning, interspersed with bits of packing here and there. I am determined not to exceed the luggage allowance of 20kg each, and so I'm throwing away all sorts of clothes that we won't use again and leaving all my leftover sunscreen etc. with the family!
Before we left I gave Dad's little journal of his time in SA to Margaret, and asked her to pass it on to Gordon. I didn't want to give it to him directly as I thought it might all get a bit emotional.
We left the house at about 2pm for the airport. We had a clear run and G&M parked up and came in to see us off after check in. However, we encountered a big problem at check in. Whilst we had paperwork confirming our South African Airways (SAA) flights from Durban to Jo'burg and then on to Heathrow, the BMI agent who booked the flights for me had not properly ticketed them - so the check in girl was missing a ticket code for the DUR-JNB leg. Without it, she could not issue us boarding cards. She'd already tagged the luggage and sent it through.
After much faffing, she came back from the SAA office and said her manager was dealing with it and was trying to contact London to get the code. In the meantime we'd have to wait. The next update we got was when she told us that is was "highly unlikely" we'd be on our flight to Joburg (due to leave at 15.40). But that she'd be able to put us on the 16.40 (provided that London sorted the references out) and we'd still make our Heathrow connection. In the meantime she was going to have our luggage taken off the flight and brought back round to check in.
Ok, we sat and waited. Time marched on (we'd told G&M to go before the traffic out of Durban built up) and still no answer... then I saw a guy bring a piece of paper to her and say "this is what you need". So I assumed she'd be calling us over soon. She didn't. Instead, she disappeared for a very long time and was last spotted hovering at the stand by desk. Maybe the flight was full and she was struggling to find 2 seats for us? It was by now 10 minutes before the 16.40 flight was due to close and I was getting really anxious. I went looking for the check in girl and found her in a small office near the main SAA offices. She looked at me and said "Oh". I said that the 16.40 flight was about to close and what was happening.... another girl dragged her away by the hand and they were giving each other sly looks!! She turned and said to me "I promise you'll be on that flight". NOW I was getting worried.
I went back to Roy, who was waiting by the check in desk. She came back and started to check us in, but was making a complete hash of it. Eventually her supervisor came along and helped out but I could not relax until I'd seen those boarding cards print out! Just at the last minute, I noticed our cases trundling away on the conveyor belt with JNB labels on them. I asked her "have you checked those bags through to Heathrow?". She said "Oh shit" (no kidding) and ran after them to put the proper LHR labels on. I guess the only good news about today was that our bags weighed in spot on 40kgs!
So we then hot footed it through security and pretty much straight on to the flight. We weren't sitting together but it was only an hour flight so not too bad. I read the in flight mag, had a much needed glass of white wine and watched my last African sunset just as we landed in Johannesburg. A perfect red ball falling below the arc of the earth. Wow.
Joburg Airport is hideous (think Heathrow but with hustler) and we had our last tourist sting of the holiday happen! Our own faults for standing about looking confused as to how to get to International Departures. A smartly dressed guy came and asked what we were looking for and before we knew it was showing us the way and politely demanding a "nice tip" for his trouble!
Ah well... soon enough we were in the Baobab lounge and relaxing for a short while. Unfortunately we missed the early boarding call for Business Class passengers and ended up in a HUGE queue to board the flight.
We ate dinner and then tried to sleep. It was SO hot though, and I did not sleep well. Watched a movie (Juno) and tried to sleep again. Not much joy. I thought the drama of today might have exhausted us!
We landed on time and had enough time (but not much spare) to collect our bags and get through to the domestic terminal. The walk to baggage collection was about 3 miles long. Don't you just love international airports? I was a bit worried about whether our bags would actually have made it through - the one place you don't want your bags going missing is Joburg! Most of the SA passengers seemed to have their suitcases shrinkwrapped in cellophane for security reasons!
So we stood at the carousel and waited. And waited. And waited some more. Ever the voice of doom, Roy decided that our bags were lost. But then, just as we'd given up hope, out they came. Leaving us now quite short on time to make the connection, and we were tired and irritable. So getting to domestic check in, we thought it would be quick and easy as we'd checked in online and printed boarding passes at Margarets the day before. But a nice "jobsworth" security man was determined to hold us up (he'd seen us trying to sneak through a "no entry" section of the BMI area) and made us go to a separate set of scales to have our luggage weighed. When we got there, the woman looked at us and said "why are you hear, just go to the bag drop". We explained that we'd been trying to but got stopped. Grrrrr... as we passed the guy again he just smirked at us.
So finally we were in Leeds. We booked a taxi and were home at last.
The end.
Wednesday 7 May 2008
Tuesday 6 May 2008
Battlefields - Day 2 (with a mini drama included)
It is our last full day in South Africa. Who needs an alarm clock when there are hadeha birds around? Not us. We woke at 6. We'd been told that breakfast would be served at 8 so we packed our bags and took a quick stroll around the gardens. There is a memorial to Foy's wife in the garden, which is very touching.
I have to say that if you are looking at the pics of the bedrooms on the Penny Farthing website, they seem a bit old fashioned and dreary. They actually are incredibly comfortable and much nicer than they look on the site!
Breakfast for us was cereal, papaya and toast. We haven't really been eating cooked breakfasts - which is probably just as well, given some of the evening meals we've indulged in!
Foy told us that we would be driving our own car on the tour and so with him (and our heavy case) in the back, we set off down the dirt track. We dared not to criticise it as Foy proudly told us he'd built it all himself when he was a young man. As we went over the first big bump (there are lots of them - water pipes I assume) I felt the underneath of Gordon's car scrape the ground. I was very nervous that we'd wreck his car. I think the combined weight of Roy, myself, Foy (a big man) and the suitcase was a tad too much!
Back on the main road, I breathed a sigh of relief, until a few minutes later when Foy instructed me to turn left onto another dusty, stony track! There were chips flying up everywheree. Foy advised me to stay above 60kms per hour to "even out" the road. Actually, it works. Wish I'd learned this tip earlier in our holiday!
First, we stopped at Rorke's Drift. This is the scene of the film Zulu and Foy gave us a very detailed overview (using a scale model of the area) of the battles of Isandlwana and Rorke's Drift, and also what had happened at Fugitive's Drift. We then went to the rebuilt hospital at Rorke's Drift, where Foy gave us chapter and verse of that battle and how the 100+ English fought off 4000 Zulu Warriors. Fascinating. Details here, if you want them:
http://battlefields.kzn.org.za/battlefields/about/192.xml
Next, we drove across the Buffalo River to Isandlwana Hill. This, I think, is the most poignant battlefield of all. So many men killed in such a short space of time. Standing on a slope overlooking the hill and the battlefield below it, the sense of history is incredible. And just to see all the white stones marking mass graves makes you sad, and for the pacifists among us, also a bit angry at the waste of young lives.
Foy told us the story of the battle - all 1.5 hours of it - and then we headed back to Penny Farthing where we ate a picnic lunch before heading home. We were on the road by 2.30 - well in time to reach G&M's before dark.
We'd consulted with G before we set off and he'd recommended that we should NOT take the R33 route via Greytown. We checked our maps, and realised that to go back the way we came (via Dundee and Ladysmith) would add about 100kms to the trip. Ann had warned us off the R33 too - she said "I wouldn't use it, and I live here". Foy, however, was insistent that we use it - "You'll get to see proper rural Africa, Zulu villages and farms. You'll be fine, and it is a beautiful drive". Ann's final comment on the matter: "It's ok for him to say that - he speaks fluent Zulu so if he broke down in the middle of nowhere, he'd be fine".
What did we do? We took the R33 of course. Tempted by the shorter trip, and the promise of beautiful valleys and hills. We'd asked Foy if there were gas stations along the way. Oh yes, he'd said, you can fill up at Greytown - 100kms from Penny Farthing. Roy asked me on the way back from the Battlefields how much petrol we had left. I told him a quarter tank. Foy said that would be plenty to get us to Greytown.
So, with Roy driving, we were about 10kms from the house, when he challenged me on the petrol situation. "This is nowhere near a quarter tank" he said. Hmm. "Well I'm sure it was when I looked". So now we have a problem. We are effectively in the middle of nowhere and we have insufficient petrol to take us 100kms to Greytown. We have no idea where the nearest gas station is. But we know we're about to hit a town called Pomeroy, so there was bound to be some petrol there, wasn't there?
Actually - no, there wasn't. We did find a gas station and pulled in to find a queue of trucks there. Most of them brimming with workers, hanging out of every available inch of truck! Sitting in the front of our little Mazda 3, GPS in one hand, wallet in the other, camera round my neck and with two mobile phones in my lap - I started to feel that I was the focal point of every pair of eyes within 20 metres and ever so slightly uncomfortable. Then I noticed a sign saying "Diesel". I said to Roy that this was a diesel only station and so we had to drive off. Where is the next place? According to our map it was Tugela Ferry, I couldn't work out the distance, but it's a lot nearer than Greytown. I also couldn't tell how big a place it was.
So we climbed up some hills - Roy was coasting down them and the anxiety of not knowing if we would make it to a gas station was really spoiling our enjoyment of the fantastic scenery! I was silently trying to figure out a contingency plan if we did run out of fuel in the countryside. I didn't really have one. It was not a good time for Roy to advise me that the Fuel Warning indicator light had just come on.
Eventually, I started to notice the familiar "taxis" along the route. Not many of them, but I saw at least one white minibus pull in to drop somebody off. Ah ha, here is contingency. If we break down, we'll have to stand on the road, hail a taxi, get to Greytown, buy a can of fuel and get a taxi back to the car. Hardly ideal (and would probably take HOURS) but at least there is some sort of plan there.......
As we coasted down a really big hill, we started to see signs of Tugela Ferry in the distance. Oh - good news - it was looking like a fairly big place, and not just houses - some industrial looking buildings too. Surely there would be petrol here? Down and down the hill we dropped, and then all of a sudden, we hit a traffic jam! As we crawled round a bend, the anticipation was excruciating... finally we could see the main drag of the road as it went through town, but there were no gas station signs. Not one. Oh dear. We saw cafes, restaurants, shops - surely there is petrol here? Another bend in the road, and this time, as we came off it, there it was, in all it's red and yellow glory: SHELL. Ahhhhh... BIG sigh of relief, a bit of cheering and air punching and in we drove.
This was the best petrol station I've ever seen! Not only were there goats and chickens running around all over the forecourt, but there were ladies selling fruit and veg and all kinds of stuff along the edges and all along the roadside. Roy got out. Getting out of your car at the gas station here is totally unnecessary. In fact, filling up is a great experience because somebody comes and does it all for you. And while the tank is filling, they wash all the windscreens and wing mirrors too. All for a small (R5-R7) tip. I wish we had that in Britain! But he'd decided to get out and stretch his legs and chat to the attendant. I could hear him lying. "We're very tired, we've just driven from Johannesburg", he fibbed. What was all that about? According to Roy, he felt unsafe here (well, Ann had spent a while telling us how evil Tugela Ferry was) and so he'd decided that the best defence was to get out and be friendly and also go for the sympathy vote by claiming to be on a long road trip. Whatever!
In actual fact, we were merely a curiosity in Tugela Ferry. Lots of folk wandered past and peered into the car, but then just smiled, waved and passed on by. To be the only white faces in a town which clearly gets very few tourists, did not mean that we were threatened at all - just a novelty. The attendant came round to my door to chat to me. Actually, this was a feeble attempt at getting money. She told me that she'd heard we were flying to England tomorrow (Roy must have filled her in on our travel plans). Oh, she said, she'd LOVE to fly to England, but she had no money. She didn't quite have her hand stretched out toward me but the implication was clear. Well we could always swap, I said. You have my ticket and I'll stay here? She burst out laughing and wandered off.
So, with a full tank and peace of mind we left Tugela Ferry. NOW we could enjoy the stunning surrounds of the hills and valleys. Now we could marvel at the sheer number of people walking on the roads. I think school was just out so we were waved at by dozens of happy looking kids. Now we could appreciate how interesting the landscape was, and try to spot the "hills that look like elephants" that Foy had mentioned to us.
Women carry babies on their persons wrapped in towels. Around the waist, around their back. Sometimes more than one. And many women have umbrellas up to shade their heads from the sun. We also saw some people carrying goods on their heads - first time we'd seen this in southern Africa. And women gather reeds along the road - presumably for thatching, as a lot of the houses here are thatched roofs.
It was a beautiful drive down to Pietermaritzburg, where we picked up the N3 motorway. At times, it looked and felt like England. But soon we knew we were in Africa as we saw the sun setting over the hills behind us. We drove into G&M's drive at 5.40 - good timing! Had a quick chat and then got showered and changed as we're taking G&M out for dinner tonight.
We went to La Strada - an Italian in Hillcrest, about 10 mins drive away. I drove tonight.
http://www.restaurants.co.za/details.asp?resId=3976
We shared a pizza bread with various cheeses (including Gorgonzola) on top. It was delicious. Then we all had Fillet steak (apart from Gordon who had a chicken salad) and that was also excellent. Then home, for coffee and a chat. We had a VERY late night tonight - 11pm.
I have to say that if you are looking at the pics of the bedrooms on the Penny Farthing website, they seem a bit old fashioned and dreary. They actually are incredibly comfortable and much nicer than they look on the site!
Breakfast for us was cereal, papaya and toast. We haven't really been eating cooked breakfasts - which is probably just as well, given some of the evening meals we've indulged in!
Foy told us that we would be driving our own car on the tour and so with him (and our heavy case) in the back, we set off down the dirt track. We dared not to criticise it as Foy proudly told us he'd built it all himself when he was a young man. As we went over the first big bump (there are lots of them - water pipes I assume) I felt the underneath of Gordon's car scrape the ground. I was very nervous that we'd wreck his car. I think the combined weight of Roy, myself, Foy (a big man) and the suitcase was a tad too much!
Back on the main road, I breathed a sigh of relief, until a few minutes later when Foy instructed me to turn left onto another dusty, stony track! There were chips flying up everywheree. Foy advised me to stay above 60kms per hour to "even out" the road. Actually, it works. Wish I'd learned this tip earlier in our holiday!
First, we stopped at Rorke's Drift. This is the scene of the film Zulu and Foy gave us a very detailed overview (using a scale model of the area) of the battles of Isandlwana and Rorke's Drift, and also what had happened at Fugitive's Drift. We then went to the rebuilt hospital at Rorke's Drift, where Foy gave us chapter and verse of that battle and how the 100+ English fought off 4000 Zulu Warriors. Fascinating. Details here, if you want them:
http://battlefields.kzn.org.za/battlefields/about/192.xml
Next, we drove across the Buffalo River to Isandlwana Hill. This, I think, is the most poignant battlefield of all. So many men killed in such a short space of time. Standing on a slope overlooking the hill and the battlefield below it, the sense of history is incredible. And just to see all the white stones marking mass graves makes you sad, and for the pacifists among us, also a bit angry at the waste of young lives.
Foy told us the story of the battle - all 1.5 hours of it - and then we headed back to Penny Farthing where we ate a picnic lunch before heading home. We were on the road by 2.30 - well in time to reach G&M's before dark.
We'd consulted with G before we set off and he'd recommended that we should NOT take the R33 route via Greytown. We checked our maps, and realised that to go back the way we came (via Dundee and Ladysmith) would add about 100kms to the trip. Ann had warned us off the R33 too - she said "I wouldn't use it, and I live here". Foy, however, was insistent that we use it - "You'll get to see proper rural Africa, Zulu villages and farms. You'll be fine, and it is a beautiful drive". Ann's final comment on the matter: "It's ok for him to say that - he speaks fluent Zulu so if he broke down in the middle of nowhere, he'd be fine".
What did we do? We took the R33 of course. Tempted by the shorter trip, and the promise of beautiful valleys and hills. We'd asked Foy if there were gas stations along the way. Oh yes, he'd said, you can fill up at Greytown - 100kms from Penny Farthing. Roy asked me on the way back from the Battlefields how much petrol we had left. I told him a quarter tank. Foy said that would be plenty to get us to Greytown.
So, with Roy driving, we were about 10kms from the house, when he challenged me on the petrol situation. "This is nowhere near a quarter tank" he said. Hmm. "Well I'm sure it was when I looked". So now we have a problem. We are effectively in the middle of nowhere and we have insufficient petrol to take us 100kms to Greytown. We have no idea where the nearest gas station is. But we know we're about to hit a town called Pomeroy, so there was bound to be some petrol there, wasn't there?
Actually - no, there wasn't. We did find a gas station and pulled in to find a queue of trucks there. Most of them brimming with workers, hanging out of every available inch of truck! Sitting in the front of our little Mazda 3, GPS in one hand, wallet in the other, camera round my neck and with two mobile phones in my lap - I started to feel that I was the focal point of every pair of eyes within 20 metres and ever so slightly uncomfortable. Then I noticed a sign saying "Diesel". I said to Roy that this was a diesel only station and so we had to drive off. Where is the next place? According to our map it was Tugela Ferry, I couldn't work out the distance, but it's a lot nearer than Greytown. I also couldn't tell how big a place it was.
So we climbed up some hills - Roy was coasting down them and the anxiety of not knowing if we would make it to a gas station was really spoiling our enjoyment of the fantastic scenery! I was silently trying to figure out a contingency plan if we did run out of fuel in the countryside. I didn't really have one. It was not a good time for Roy to advise me that the Fuel Warning indicator light had just come on.
Eventually, I started to notice the familiar "taxis" along the route. Not many of them, but I saw at least one white minibus pull in to drop somebody off. Ah ha, here is contingency. If we break down, we'll have to stand on the road, hail a taxi, get to Greytown, buy a can of fuel and get a taxi back to the car. Hardly ideal (and would probably take HOURS) but at least there is some sort of plan there.......
As we coasted down a really big hill, we started to see signs of Tugela Ferry in the distance. Oh - good news - it was looking like a fairly big place, and not just houses - some industrial looking buildings too. Surely there would be petrol here? Down and down the hill we dropped, and then all of a sudden, we hit a traffic jam! As we crawled round a bend, the anticipation was excruciating... finally we could see the main drag of the road as it went through town, but there were no gas station signs. Not one. Oh dear. We saw cafes, restaurants, shops - surely there is petrol here? Another bend in the road, and this time, as we came off it, there it was, in all it's red and yellow glory: SHELL. Ahhhhh... BIG sigh of relief, a bit of cheering and air punching and in we drove.
This was the best petrol station I've ever seen! Not only were there goats and chickens running around all over the forecourt, but there were ladies selling fruit and veg and all kinds of stuff along the edges and all along the roadside. Roy got out. Getting out of your car at the gas station here is totally unnecessary. In fact, filling up is a great experience because somebody comes and does it all for you. And while the tank is filling, they wash all the windscreens and wing mirrors too. All for a small (R5-R7) tip. I wish we had that in Britain! But he'd decided to get out and stretch his legs and chat to the attendant. I could hear him lying. "We're very tired, we've just driven from Johannesburg", he fibbed. What was all that about? According to Roy, he felt unsafe here (well, Ann had spent a while telling us how evil Tugela Ferry was) and so he'd decided that the best defence was to get out and be friendly and also go for the sympathy vote by claiming to be on a long road trip. Whatever!
In actual fact, we were merely a curiosity in Tugela Ferry. Lots of folk wandered past and peered into the car, but then just smiled, waved and passed on by. To be the only white faces in a town which clearly gets very few tourists, did not mean that we were threatened at all - just a novelty. The attendant came round to my door to chat to me. Actually, this was a feeble attempt at getting money. She told me that she'd heard we were flying to England tomorrow (Roy must have filled her in on our travel plans). Oh, she said, she'd LOVE to fly to England, but she had no money. She didn't quite have her hand stretched out toward me but the implication was clear. Well we could always swap, I said. You have my ticket and I'll stay here? She burst out laughing and wandered off.
So, with a full tank and peace of mind we left Tugela Ferry. NOW we could enjoy the stunning surrounds of the hills and valleys. Now we could marvel at the sheer number of people walking on the roads. I think school was just out so we were waved at by dozens of happy looking kids. Now we could appreciate how interesting the landscape was, and try to spot the "hills that look like elephants" that Foy had mentioned to us.
Women carry babies on their persons wrapped in towels. Around the waist, around their back. Sometimes more than one. And many women have umbrellas up to shade their heads from the sun. We also saw some people carrying goods on their heads - first time we'd seen this in southern Africa. And women gather reeds along the road - presumably for thatching, as a lot of the houses here are thatched roofs.
It was a beautiful drive down to Pietermaritzburg, where we picked up the N3 motorway. At times, it looked and felt like England. But soon we knew we were in Africa as we saw the sun setting over the hills behind us. We drove into G&M's drive at 5.40 - good timing! Had a quick chat and then got showered and changed as we're taking G&M out for dinner tonight.
We went to La Strada - an Italian in Hillcrest, about 10 mins drive away. I drove tonight.
http://www.restaurants.co.za/details.asp?resId=3976
We shared a pizza bread with various cheeses (including Gorgonzola) on top. It was delicious. Then we all had Fillet steak (apart from Gordon who had a chicken salad) and that was also excellent. Then home, for coffee and a chat. We had a VERY late night tonight - 11pm.
Monday 5 May 2008
Battlefields - Day 1
We woke at 6.15am to............ sunshine! Please let it stay sunny.
We had breakfast with Gail and then left her place at around 9.30 to drive into the Battlefields area where we are spending the next 2 days. This part of the trip was organised, booked and paid for by G&M but as I explained they are now unable to join us.
Our first stop was Spionkop. This was the site of a British defeat by the Boers in January 1900.
http://battlefields.kzn.org.za/battlefields/about/191.xml
What struck me most was that it is a very beautiful place, and somehow you can't imagine it being a place to fight. There are 360 degree views from the top of the hill - and it is such a clear day we can see along the entire Drakensberg range. Stunning.
We had Spionkop to ourselves, there was nobody else around at all. You can drive right to the top of the hill (yay, no walking!) and then do a self guided trail. It is interesting and also very sad - to see all those graves (mostly mass grave sites) and read how young most of the men were.
I also find it strange that this particular battle was between the Boers and the British - both fighting over something that didn't belong to either of them!
The famous "Kop" stand at Anfield is named after Spionkop, in tribute to the many local people who fell at this battle (the West Lancashire regiment had a large presence there). I only learned this recently! But luckily before we travelled to SA.
So after leaving Spionkop (along a 7km dusty dirt track, of course) we drove through Ladysmith, and had planned to stop there. We decided against this as there was no parking near the museum (which specialises in the Battlefields story) and there didn't seem to be many tourists around... just a working town. We drove through Glencoe and Dundee - where we stopped to get a sandwich at Pick n Pay - and parked up just out of Dundee to eat lunch. Lunch included the biggest custard slice I've ever seen in my life. But we did share it!
Our B&B - Penny Farthing - was about 30kms past Dundee and we arrived there just after 2. Penny Farthing is a lovely property in the middle of nowhere - 2/3kms along a dirt track off the main road - and we were greeted by three dogs barking excitedly as we opened the car doors. It was only 2 days later, back at G&Ms, that we realised one of the dogs had badly scratched the passenger door!
http://www.pennyf.co.za/index.htm
Ann, the housekeeper, greeted us and showed us to our room. It was lovely, and as it was still hot and sunny, we had a little walk round the gardens and sat by the pool to read for a short while. Everywhere we went we were followed by the dogs!
Roy wasn't feeling so good so he had a lie down and then we went out for another walk, venturing further out into the open farmland. It really is tranquil and beautiful here. Foy, the owner and our Battlefield guide for tomorrow, dropped some reading material in at our room and said he would see us at dinner.
We had drinks at 6.30pm and then we all sat down to eat. Dinner is a communal affair with all guests eating with Ann and Foy. Ann is the cook (although she does have a lot of help) but eats very little as she says she would get too fat if she ate the meals she cooked every night. I was starting to suffer with dog allergies as those dogs have the run of the house, including the dining area. But they are nice dogs! The only other guests are a Dutch couple, and they are not on the tour with Foy tomorrow. In fact, it looks like we'll have him to ourselves.
Dinner: Mushroom soup (delicious!) with croutons/ Lamb, sweet potato, broccoli, samp & beans, carrots, cauli, gravy/Strawberry cheesecake and ice cream.
Now, Margaret has been worrying about us driving after dark here. And so she asked us to speak with Foy to make sure that he would have us back off the tour in time for daylight driving. It is a good 3-4 hours back to Durban and sunset is now shortly before 6pm. So he agreed, and said that to "save time" in the morning, we would watch a video whilst having after dinner coffee. The idea is that he gives a lot of background info to the Anglo-Zulu War before the tour commences.
We all went through to the lounge. About 5 minutes into the first film, the dutch lady was fast asleep! I had the "fidgets" and could not keep still. I went to take an antihistamine and came back to the lounge. The film ended and I thought "oh great - bedtime". Foy came back in. Instead of wishing us good night, he put another video in the machine. We watched that. Surely now we can sleep? Not quite. He then came back in and said he would do our "orientation"! This consisted of him telling us where the Boers, Zulus and English were coming from in the months leading up to the Zulu War. So all incredibly interesting, but I'm sure I'll have forgotten everything by tomorrow!
It is a chilly night - the fire has been burning since 6 - but we have electric blankets and sleep well.
We had breakfast with Gail and then left her place at around 9.30 to drive into the Battlefields area where we are spending the next 2 days. This part of the trip was organised, booked and paid for by G&M but as I explained they are now unable to join us.
Our first stop was Spionkop. This was the site of a British defeat by the Boers in January 1900.
http://battlefields.kzn.org.za/battlefields/about/191.xml
What struck me most was that it is a very beautiful place, and somehow you can't imagine it being a place to fight. There are 360 degree views from the top of the hill - and it is such a clear day we can see along the entire Drakensberg range. Stunning.
We had Spionkop to ourselves, there was nobody else around at all. You can drive right to the top of the hill (yay, no walking!) and then do a self guided trail. It is interesting and also very sad - to see all those graves (mostly mass grave sites) and read how young most of the men were.
I also find it strange that this particular battle was between the Boers and the British - both fighting over something that didn't belong to either of them!
The famous "Kop" stand at Anfield is named after Spionkop, in tribute to the many local people who fell at this battle (the West Lancashire regiment had a large presence there). I only learned this recently! But luckily before we travelled to SA.
So after leaving Spionkop (along a 7km dusty dirt track, of course) we drove through Ladysmith, and had planned to stop there. We decided against this as there was no parking near the museum (which specialises in the Battlefields story) and there didn't seem to be many tourists around... just a working town. We drove through Glencoe and Dundee - where we stopped to get a sandwich at Pick n Pay - and parked up just out of Dundee to eat lunch. Lunch included the biggest custard slice I've ever seen in my life. But we did share it!
Our B&B - Penny Farthing - was about 30kms past Dundee and we arrived there just after 2. Penny Farthing is a lovely property in the middle of nowhere - 2/3kms along a dirt track off the main road - and we were greeted by three dogs barking excitedly as we opened the car doors. It was only 2 days later, back at G&Ms, that we realised one of the dogs had badly scratched the passenger door!
http://www.pennyf.co.za/index.htm
Ann, the housekeeper, greeted us and showed us to our room. It was lovely, and as it was still hot and sunny, we had a little walk round the gardens and sat by the pool to read for a short while. Everywhere we went we were followed by the dogs!
Roy wasn't feeling so good so he had a lie down and then we went out for another walk, venturing further out into the open farmland. It really is tranquil and beautiful here. Foy, the owner and our Battlefield guide for tomorrow, dropped some reading material in at our room and said he would see us at dinner.
We had drinks at 6.30pm and then we all sat down to eat. Dinner is a communal affair with all guests eating with Ann and Foy. Ann is the cook (although she does have a lot of help) but eats very little as she says she would get too fat if she ate the meals she cooked every night. I was starting to suffer with dog allergies as those dogs have the run of the house, including the dining area. But they are nice dogs! The only other guests are a Dutch couple, and they are not on the tour with Foy tomorrow. In fact, it looks like we'll have him to ourselves.
Dinner: Mushroom soup (delicious!) with croutons/ Lamb, sweet potato, broccoli, samp & beans, carrots, cauli, gravy/Strawberry cheesecake and ice cream.
Now, Margaret has been worrying about us driving after dark here. And so she asked us to speak with Foy to make sure that he would have us back off the tour in time for daylight driving. It is a good 3-4 hours back to Durban and sunset is now shortly before 6pm. So he agreed, and said that to "save time" in the morning, we would watch a video whilst having after dinner coffee. The idea is that he gives a lot of background info to the Anglo-Zulu War before the tour commences.
We all went through to the lounge. About 5 minutes into the first film, the dutch lady was fast asleep! I had the "fidgets" and could not keep still. I went to take an antihistamine and came back to the lounge. The film ended and I thought "oh great - bedtime". Foy came back in. Instead of wishing us good night, he put another video in the machine. We watched that. Surely now we can sleep? Not quite. He then came back in and said he would do our "orientation"! This consisted of him telling us where the Boers, Zulus and English were coming from in the months leading up to the Zulu War. So all incredibly interesting, but I'm sure I'll have forgotten everything by tomorrow!
It is a chilly night - the fire has been burning since 6 - but we have electric blankets and sleep well.
Sunday 4 May 2008
Sani - the Pass to surpass all Passes
As you may have read we've driven a LOT of mountain passes in the last 3 weeks. And loved pretty much every single one of them, even the ones we've moaned about. So today we're heading up the Sani Pass. This time it's different - we will not be self driving this one. The state of the roads and the steep, sharp bends near the top, mean that this one is best left to the experts.
Woke just before 7. It is windy and cloudy. It is Autumn here and I'm totally discombobulated. All around us are the beautiful colours of Autumn - red, gold and brown trees. And yet back home, the trees are just starting to bud (or where when we came away) and everything will by now have turned to green.
We got up out of bed when our coffee and wake up call arrived at 7.30am. Oh - and the extremely tasty home made biscotti! No sooner had we finished that, it was time for breakfast! We wanted to eat early-ish and then take a stroll. The food, as expected, was lovely. With light as a feather home made scones being the crowning glory on the buffet table. I also had some poached eggs.
Walking around the dam, we stopped to watch two herons fighting over domination of a tree and a small island in the lake. One of them eventually managed to harangue the other one off his patch!
We checked out, paid up, chatted with the owner and receptionist, complimenting them on their hotel. They told us we have to come back! I'd love to. In fact, they've even told us the best room to ask for! Funny, but I already thought we had the best room.....
Then we wandered outside to wait for our car to take us up the Sani Pass. It didn't seem as if any of the other guests in the hotel were on the same trip as nobody else was waiting. We'd been told that the driver would be there between 9.30 and 9.45. We'd filled in all our passport/border control forms.... the other exciting thing about Sani Pass is that it actually takes you from South Africa, across the border into Lesotho, an independent Kingdom.
It was almost 10 before a 4WD with "Sani Pass Tours" pulled up into the hotel drive. As the driver got out we strolled toward him and introduced ourselves. He looked at us blankly. "Sorry, I don't have any tours booked today, who did you book with?".
I explained that we made our booking via the hotel. He asked us to wait and said he'd go and have a word with the hotel people. He came back out and explained that there had been a mix up (we'd gathered that already). I'd actually changed the date of our hotel reservation (and the Sani tour) before we came out here, and unfortunately the hotel had forgotten to let him know. As far as he knew we were not due to do the trip until the next day!
But, no matter. He jumped in his car, told us to get in (apologising he'd not had chance to clean it out) handed us a "Birds of the Sani Pass" laminate and set off driving. On the way, he started telling us all about the history of the road leading into Lesotho.
http://www.sanitours.co.za/default.htm
On the way to the Pass, we saw basotho people, wrapped in brightly coloured woollen blankets, leading some horses down the road. Our guide explained that they come down to trade things, look for work or steal cattle and other animals.
Soon after, our guide took a phone call and explained that there was another car from his tour company only 5/10 minutes ahead of us, so if we didn't mind, we would be joining that tour. No problem. I was glad that he'd got his day back! Soon after we were with Viv, our new guide and Muriel - a Swiss lady who was the only other person on the trip. And off we went - up the Pass.
Sani Pass is without question the most horrendous road I've ever travelled on. The rocks, stones, water and potholes cover 100% of it. Having done the trip, I don't think I'd have been scared of self driving (in the right car!) but I don't think it would particularly enjoyable - it just takes far too long. And the concentration required would make that hard work. It takes over 3 hours to get up (including a few quick stops) and 2.5 hours to get down.
We saw reedbok, eland and angora goats on the mountains whilst going up. At the top we saw a cape vulture and a Drakensberg Rock Jumper (beautiful orange bird unique to this area). On the way back down, Viv had to stop to pick up a stunning chameleon off the road as he would just not move out of the way of our car!
At the top we went into a basotho woman's (small) hut. They have a flag system outside to show what they're trading on any particular day (beer, bread, garments, etc). We tried some local beer (all I can say is that it was "refreshing") and some excellent wholewheat bread. We learned a few words in the local language (which I have of course now forgotten) and then we were invited to peruse her collection of traditional hats which were for sale and scattered across her bed. The big hats were quite nice - not for wearing, but being woven I had in mind that they'd make good food covers if we were eating outdoors! Anyway, in the end, I just bought a tiny hat - easier to pack (and not much cheaper!). I guess it's just a little souvenir and I figured that it would be a small contribution to this lady to say thanks for letting us in her hut.
Talk about a tourist sting! Just after I picked up and paid for the hat, Viv asked if we'd maybe like to make a "small donation" to the lady. Muriel announced that she had no small change whatsover, and so Roy ended up handing over more cash "from the three of us"!
After the visit to the hut (which was pretty brief and a little less informative than I'd imagined it would be) we were taken to the Sani Top Chalet - the highest pub in Southern Africa.
http://www.sanitopchalet.co.za/index.htm
Here we drank local beer (but not the home brew!) and ordered lunch. Whilst waiting we wandered outside on the balcony and took in the fantastic views. But we didn't linger too long - the sun was out by now but there was a howling wind and it was pretty cold! Inside we ate with Muriel. Roy had sausage and mash which was pretty hearty! I got a a "Famous Sani Sausage" with bread. It actually turned out to be a giant hot dog - but the bread was home made and really good. Muriel ordered smoked trout and it looked very good.
After lunch we set off back down... Roy learned a lesson: do not eat a huge meal when you're going to be bounced around on a horrid road for 2 hours straight afterwards!
Back at the hotel by 3.30pm, we collected our car and headed off to Gail's house, as we were staying with her that night. We had a good drive - on the proper road! - there and arrived just as it was getting dark. Gail lives in Hilton, a beautiful suburb of Pietermartizburg. Or just "Maritzburg" as the locals call it. We haven't been into the town itself, and I don't think we'll get time to.
So, Gail cooked us a spag bol and we chatted with her over a bottle of red, until we were both yawning and tired and so went to bed early. Oh - we'd watched a lightning storm from the dining room. We stayed in a self contained cottage at the side of the main house. Candy and Katie were there but just joined us for dinner as they were watching movies.
Woke just before 7. It is windy and cloudy. It is Autumn here and I'm totally discombobulated. All around us are the beautiful colours of Autumn - red, gold and brown trees. And yet back home, the trees are just starting to bud (or where when we came away) and everything will by now have turned to green.
We got up out of bed when our coffee and wake up call arrived at 7.30am. Oh - and the extremely tasty home made biscotti! No sooner had we finished that, it was time for breakfast! We wanted to eat early-ish and then take a stroll. The food, as expected, was lovely. With light as a feather home made scones being the crowning glory on the buffet table. I also had some poached eggs.
Walking around the dam, we stopped to watch two herons fighting over domination of a tree and a small island in the lake. One of them eventually managed to harangue the other one off his patch!
We checked out, paid up, chatted with the owner and receptionist, complimenting them on their hotel. They told us we have to come back! I'd love to. In fact, they've even told us the best room to ask for! Funny, but I already thought we had the best room.....
Then we wandered outside to wait for our car to take us up the Sani Pass. It didn't seem as if any of the other guests in the hotel were on the same trip as nobody else was waiting. We'd been told that the driver would be there between 9.30 and 9.45. We'd filled in all our passport/border control forms.... the other exciting thing about Sani Pass is that it actually takes you from South Africa, across the border into Lesotho, an independent Kingdom.
It was almost 10 before a 4WD with "Sani Pass Tours" pulled up into the hotel drive. As the driver got out we strolled toward him and introduced ourselves. He looked at us blankly. "Sorry, I don't have any tours booked today, who did you book with?".
I explained that we made our booking via the hotel. He asked us to wait and said he'd go and have a word with the hotel people. He came back out and explained that there had been a mix up (we'd gathered that already). I'd actually changed the date of our hotel reservation (and the Sani tour) before we came out here, and unfortunately the hotel had forgotten to let him know. As far as he knew we were not due to do the trip until the next day!
But, no matter. He jumped in his car, told us to get in (apologising he'd not had chance to clean it out) handed us a "Birds of the Sani Pass" laminate and set off driving. On the way, he started telling us all about the history of the road leading into Lesotho.
http://www.sanitours.co.za/default.htm
On the way to the Pass, we saw basotho people, wrapped in brightly coloured woollen blankets, leading some horses down the road. Our guide explained that they come down to trade things, look for work or steal cattle and other animals.
Soon after, our guide took a phone call and explained that there was another car from his tour company only 5/10 minutes ahead of us, so if we didn't mind, we would be joining that tour. No problem. I was glad that he'd got his day back! Soon after we were with Viv, our new guide and Muriel - a Swiss lady who was the only other person on the trip. And off we went - up the Pass.
Sani Pass is without question the most horrendous road I've ever travelled on. The rocks, stones, water and potholes cover 100% of it. Having done the trip, I don't think I'd have been scared of self driving (in the right car!) but I don't think it would particularly enjoyable - it just takes far too long. And the concentration required would make that hard work. It takes over 3 hours to get up (including a few quick stops) and 2.5 hours to get down.
We saw reedbok, eland and angora goats on the mountains whilst going up. At the top we saw a cape vulture and a Drakensberg Rock Jumper (beautiful orange bird unique to this area). On the way back down, Viv had to stop to pick up a stunning chameleon off the road as he would just not move out of the way of our car!
At the top we went into a basotho woman's (small) hut. They have a flag system outside to show what they're trading on any particular day (beer, bread, garments, etc). We tried some local beer (all I can say is that it was "refreshing") and some excellent wholewheat bread. We learned a few words in the local language (which I have of course now forgotten) and then we were invited to peruse her collection of traditional hats which were for sale and scattered across her bed. The big hats were quite nice - not for wearing, but being woven I had in mind that they'd make good food covers if we were eating outdoors! Anyway, in the end, I just bought a tiny hat - easier to pack (and not much cheaper!). I guess it's just a little souvenir and I figured that it would be a small contribution to this lady to say thanks for letting us in her hut.
Talk about a tourist sting! Just after I picked up and paid for the hat, Viv asked if we'd maybe like to make a "small donation" to the lady. Muriel announced that she had no small change whatsover, and so Roy ended up handing over more cash "from the three of us"!
After the visit to the hut (which was pretty brief and a little less informative than I'd imagined it would be) we were taken to the Sani Top Chalet - the highest pub in Southern Africa.
http://www.sanitopchalet.co.za/index.htm
Here we drank local beer (but not the home brew!) and ordered lunch. Whilst waiting we wandered outside on the balcony and took in the fantastic views. But we didn't linger too long - the sun was out by now but there was a howling wind and it was pretty cold! Inside we ate with Muriel. Roy had sausage and mash which was pretty hearty! I got a a "Famous Sani Sausage" with bread. It actually turned out to be a giant hot dog - but the bread was home made and really good. Muriel ordered smoked trout and it looked very good.
After lunch we set off back down... Roy learned a lesson: do not eat a huge meal when you're going to be bounced around on a horrid road for 2 hours straight afterwards!
Back at the hotel by 3.30pm, we collected our car and headed off to Gail's house, as we were staying with her that night. We had a good drive - on the proper road! - there and arrived just as it was getting dark. Gail lives in Hilton, a beautiful suburb of Pietermartizburg. Or just "Maritzburg" as the locals call it. We haven't been into the town itself, and I don't think we'll get time to.
So, Gail cooked us a spag bol and we chatted with her over a bottle of red, until we were both yawning and tired and so went to bed early. Oh - we'd watched a lightning storm from the dining room. We stayed in a self contained cottage at the side of the main house. Candy and Katie were there but just joined us for dinner as they were watching movies.
Saturday 3 May 2008
Back on the road again
I walked out to see a beautiful sunrise this morning (6.15am). But after that it clouded over and it is very cool and overcast.
We're heading out on the Midlands Meander and then on to Himeville for an overnight stay in the Drakensberg mountains.
http://www.midlandsmeander.co.za/midlands/index.html
I'm not sure quite how I would describe the Meander. I guess you could say it is a scenic drive with shops and cafes and restaurants along the way. I had in my mind that they'd all be quite close together but they aren't. And the Meander route is quite confusing as it isn't one loop route as such but there are little branches going off it all over the place! We wanted to be off the Meander by lunchtime as we didn't want to arrive at Moorcroft Manor too late.
So, we stopped only a few times - at Higgly Piggly - a small centre with farm shop, cafe, plant nursery, ceramic place and a few other shops. We bought some wine there. Next we called in at Decadance where they feature stunning artwork made of beads. And then into Spiral Blue - kind of an Eastern shop. Finally we called in (after 3kms up a dirt track) to Swissland - a wooden chalet surrounded by goats. Guess what they sell there? Yup, cheese. We tasted a lot of cheeses but decided against buying a "picnic platter" there as it was not quite warm enough to sit outside for long.
We decided to go for a proper lunch stop at Bierkassl - which had been recommended by G. We arrived at 12.45-ish. The sun had popped out so we grabbed the last remaining outside table only to find it was in the shade. This resulted in a squabble as I said that if Roy had been faster (he'd been faffing around in the car park) we'd have got into the sun.
We were ignored by 2 or 3 different waiters until about 10 past 1. By now we were both really irritable. Eventually we saw a menu, but realised that there were no "snacky" things or sandwiches on there. So we told our waiter we were leaving and he suggested going round the corner to a place called Aladdin's Lamp. We parked up there and it took us a good 5 minutes to find the cafe. When we did there was a big sign up announcing its closure until further notice.
So, back to the main road and we called in to the Nathan Road Junction Deli. It was awful! We got toasted sandwiches (mine had the weirdest looking bacon I'd ever seen on it) and cold chips. The salad was not so fresh looking. Only saving grace was that the coffees were quite good. And it didn't cost much!
So, on we went. We studied our map and decided on an alternate route to the one Gordon had told us to take. We ended up on the Souter Pass. Now this was not a steep mountain pass, but after a while on it the tarmac changed to a dirt road. And it went on and on and on like that for 50kms - horrible, bumpy, pot hole filled dirt track. And this time we weren't in the 4X4. I felt really bad that I had taken G's car on such an awful road. That said, the scenery was stunning. We were following the Drakensberg south. And saw a beautiful Jackal buzzard on the way.
We arrived at Moorcroft Manor at 4-ish. That dirt trail only finished about 2kms before the hotel and had taken some time to negotiate. Moorcroft is fantastic. We've been upgraded to a suite, we think - the bath is the best bath in South Africa! They have a free ironing service here so Roy put a pair of trousers in, as they needed doing. They were back in record time! And for this brilliant hotel we're paying £30 each, bed and breakfast. We'd be in the tiniest of rooms if we had a B&B in Britain for that price.
http://www.moorcroft.co.za/default.htm
We walked around the little dam at the foot of the hotel grounds - watched herons and hadehas and fishermen. There was a beautiful sunset over the mountains but it's not a clear night. Fingers crossed for tomorrow.
We had a decanter of sherry in our room so we took a tipple before going to dinner. Then in the bar we were offered drinks and the menus. The food was - you know what I'm going to say - amazing. We both picked the same!
Amuse bouche: ham, cream cheese, caper
Starter: Deep fried feta with shaved smoked trout / salad and dressing, melba toast and butter
Main: Fillet steak, pepper sauce, potato wedges, carrot, broccoli
Dessert: Black Forest Cheesecake (homemade with cherries, kirsh and chocolate)
Coffees. (Irish for Roy).
I forget the exact price of this but it was under R400. The fillet was superb - flame grilled and so tender and tasty.
Overall, Moorcroft is THE best hotel we've stayed in for value. In fact, it is one of my favourite places here.
We're heading out on the Midlands Meander and then on to Himeville for an overnight stay in the Drakensberg mountains.
http://www.midlandsmeander.co.za/midlands/index.html
I'm not sure quite how I would describe the Meander. I guess you could say it is a scenic drive with shops and cafes and restaurants along the way. I had in my mind that they'd all be quite close together but they aren't. And the Meander route is quite confusing as it isn't one loop route as such but there are little branches going off it all over the place! We wanted to be off the Meander by lunchtime as we didn't want to arrive at Moorcroft Manor too late.
So, we stopped only a few times - at Higgly Piggly - a small centre with farm shop, cafe, plant nursery, ceramic place and a few other shops. We bought some wine there. Next we called in at Decadance where they feature stunning artwork made of beads. And then into Spiral Blue - kind of an Eastern shop. Finally we called in (after 3kms up a dirt track) to Swissland - a wooden chalet surrounded by goats. Guess what they sell there? Yup, cheese. We tasted a lot of cheeses but decided against buying a "picnic platter" there as it was not quite warm enough to sit outside for long.
We decided to go for a proper lunch stop at Bierkassl - which had been recommended by G. We arrived at 12.45-ish. The sun had popped out so we grabbed the last remaining outside table only to find it was in the shade. This resulted in a squabble as I said that if Roy had been faster (he'd been faffing around in the car park) we'd have got into the sun.
We were ignored by 2 or 3 different waiters until about 10 past 1. By now we were both really irritable. Eventually we saw a menu, but realised that there were no "snacky" things or sandwiches on there. So we told our waiter we were leaving and he suggested going round the corner to a place called Aladdin's Lamp. We parked up there and it took us a good 5 minutes to find the cafe. When we did there was a big sign up announcing its closure until further notice.
So, back to the main road and we called in to the Nathan Road Junction Deli. It was awful! We got toasted sandwiches (mine had the weirdest looking bacon I'd ever seen on it) and cold chips. The salad was not so fresh looking. Only saving grace was that the coffees were quite good. And it didn't cost much!
So, on we went. We studied our map and decided on an alternate route to the one Gordon had told us to take. We ended up on the Souter Pass. Now this was not a steep mountain pass, but after a while on it the tarmac changed to a dirt road. And it went on and on and on like that for 50kms - horrible, bumpy, pot hole filled dirt track. And this time we weren't in the 4X4. I felt really bad that I had taken G's car on such an awful road. That said, the scenery was stunning. We were following the Drakensberg south. And saw a beautiful Jackal buzzard on the way.
We arrived at Moorcroft Manor at 4-ish. That dirt trail only finished about 2kms before the hotel and had taken some time to negotiate. Moorcroft is fantastic. We've been upgraded to a suite, we think - the bath is the best bath in South Africa! They have a free ironing service here so Roy put a pair of trousers in, as they needed doing. They were back in record time! And for this brilliant hotel we're paying £30 each, bed and breakfast. We'd be in the tiniest of rooms if we had a B&B in Britain for that price.
http://www.moorcroft.co.za/default.htm
We walked around the little dam at the foot of the hotel grounds - watched herons and hadehas and fishermen. There was a beautiful sunset over the mountains but it's not a clear night. Fingers crossed for tomorrow.
We had a decanter of sherry in our room so we took a tipple before going to dinner. Then in the bar we were offered drinks and the menus. The food was - you know what I'm going to say - amazing. We both picked the same!
Amuse bouche: ham, cream cheese, caper
Starter: Deep fried feta with shaved smoked trout / salad and dressing, melba toast and butter
Main: Fillet steak, pepper sauce, potato wedges, carrot, broccoli
Dessert: Black Forest Cheesecake (homemade with cherries, kirsh and chocolate)
Coffees. (Irish for Roy).
I forget the exact price of this but it was under R400. The fillet was superb - flame grilled and so tender and tasty.
Overall, Moorcroft is THE best hotel we've stayed in for value. In fact, it is one of my favourite places here.
Friday 2 May 2008
Touring the other side of Durban
Woke at 6 and read my book... I'm determined to finish Mandela's Long Walk to Freedom before I leave here. After breakfast, Roy helped Gordon change a tyre on his bakkie (pick up truck) as Caitlin had borrowed it yesterday and got a flat.
Once all that was done, we took a drive out - me driving to get used to G's car as he's lending it to us for the weekend. G&M were supposed to be accompanying us on our weekend away but unfortunately they are too busy with running their business and so they can't come.
We drove around the Valley of 1000 Hills. We stopped at some nice craft shops and also to meet Gail for a coffee and pass her some stuff she'd left in G&M's the other night. Next we went to a place called Phezulu, to watch some Zulu dancing. It was really good.
http://www.phezulusafaripark.co.za/zuluculture.htm
The views of the valley of 1000 Hills from Phezulu were incredible. The weather is a little brighter today but still not brilliant. When the sun is out it's lovely - but soon cools down when it clouds over.
We stopped at the Cape Town Fish Market for lunch. Margaret recommended the grilled hake and chips - and it was very good. And not too heavy.
http://www.ctfm.co.za/home/
Back home to chill out and then Margaret cooked us a wonderful lamb roast dinner. I love how she makes butternut squash - she cooks the butternut until soft and then mashes it with butter and salt and pepper. She taught us this when she visited England last year and I have made it since. Yummy!
We sat and chatted after dinner - G&M can both talk a lot and are really good company. It is fascinating hearing about some of the adventures they've had since moving to SA in 1969. They've had some tough times, too. As a family, the SA Almans have been through a lot and yet they have not lost their spirit or verve for life.
Once all that was done, we took a drive out - me driving to get used to G's car as he's lending it to us for the weekend. G&M were supposed to be accompanying us on our weekend away but unfortunately they are too busy with running their business and so they can't come.
We drove around the Valley of 1000 Hills. We stopped at some nice craft shops and also to meet Gail for a coffee and pass her some stuff she'd left in G&M's the other night. Next we went to a place called Phezulu, to watch some Zulu dancing. It was really good.
http://www.phezulusafaripark.co.za/zuluculture.htm
The views of the valley of 1000 Hills from Phezulu were incredible. The weather is a little brighter today but still not brilliant. When the sun is out it's lovely - but soon cools down when it clouds over.
We stopped at the Cape Town Fish Market for lunch. Margaret recommended the grilled hake and chips - and it was very good. And not too heavy.
http://www.ctfm.co.za/home/
Back home to chill out and then Margaret cooked us a wonderful lamb roast dinner. I love how she makes butternut squash - she cooks the butternut until soft and then mashes it with butter and salt and pepper. She taught us this when she visited England last year and I have made it since. Yummy!
We sat and chatted after dinner - G&M can both talk a lot and are really good company. It is fascinating hearing about some of the adventures they've had since moving to SA in 1969. They've had some tough times, too. As a family, the SA Almans have been through a lot and yet they have not lost their spirit or verve for life.
Thursday 1 May 2008
YOU-Shakka!
It is the first of May. And this week there have been two or three (I get confused) public holidays in South Africa. A lot of people have taken the full week off work.
So it is now the beginning of a long holiday weekend here. Gail took us out today on a tour of Durban city. Actually, we started by having a look at the Kloof gorge nearby my aunt and uncle's house. It is huge and very scenic. We then drove down in to Durban but we did not park up and get out to have a walk as "downtown" Durban is not considered white-friendly or safe. Such a shame. We saw the old buildings and shops and the town hall.
Next, we stopped at Ushaka. This is a very cleverly designed aquarium attraction on the newly developed section of Durban's waterfront. By the time we arrived it had started to rain, so I guess it was one of the better places to be - being largely indoors. There are some outdoor things there - including a water park - but we just had a walk round and looked at the various fish and underwater life from the Indian Ocean. The design is like a shipwreck and at some point as you walk round the whole "ship" turns upside down!
We then ran back in to the small mall which lines the entrance to Ushaka and stopped for coffee and lunch at Ninos (which is a coffee shop chain here). Gail's daughters Candice and Caitlin had joined us and we chatted and just generally hung out. Made me feel quite young ;-)
The reason today's blog is named You-Shakka is because of a standing joke with my cousin, her kids and my aunt. Auntie Margaret mispronounces Ushaka. It should be oosharkah, quite a gentle sound. Margaret says YOU-Shakker - a real harsh sound. So we were having some fun with that all day - shouting out YOU-Shakka at various points. I guess you had to be there!
We came back to G&Ms and Margaret had made curry. She makes the most fabulous lamb curry and chicken and prawn, too. With various sambals to accompany. It was delicious - apparently the secret in the recipe is blitzed up baked beans! I must try that one day.
Another early night. We get so tired here - and really, we're doing the least we've done all holiday.
So it is now the beginning of a long holiday weekend here. Gail took us out today on a tour of Durban city. Actually, we started by having a look at the Kloof gorge nearby my aunt and uncle's house. It is huge and very scenic. We then drove down in to Durban but we did not park up and get out to have a walk as "downtown" Durban is not considered white-friendly or safe. Such a shame. We saw the old buildings and shops and the town hall.
Next, we stopped at Ushaka. This is a very cleverly designed aquarium attraction on the newly developed section of Durban's waterfront. By the time we arrived it had started to rain, so I guess it was one of the better places to be - being largely indoors. There are some outdoor things there - including a water park - but we just had a walk round and looked at the various fish and underwater life from the Indian Ocean. The design is like a shipwreck and at some point as you walk round the whole "ship" turns upside down!
We then ran back in to the small mall which lines the entrance to Ushaka and stopped for coffee and lunch at Ninos (which is a coffee shop chain here). Gail's daughters Candice and Caitlin had joined us and we chatted and just generally hung out. Made me feel quite young ;-)
The reason today's blog is named You-Shakka is because of a standing joke with my cousin, her kids and my aunt. Auntie Margaret mispronounces Ushaka. It should be oosharkah, quite a gentle sound. Margaret says YOU-Shakker - a real harsh sound. So we were having some fun with that all day - shouting out YOU-Shakka at various points. I guess you had to be there!
We came back to G&Ms and Margaret had made curry. She makes the most fabulous lamb curry and chicken and prawn, too. With various sambals to accompany. It was delicious - apparently the secret in the recipe is blitzed up baked beans! I must try that one day.
Another early night. We get so tired here - and really, we're doing the least we've done all holiday.
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