As you may have read we've driven a LOT of mountain passes in the last 3 weeks. And loved pretty much every single one of them, even the ones we've moaned about. So today we're heading up the Sani Pass. This time it's different - we will not be self driving this one. The state of the roads and the steep, sharp bends near the top, mean that this one is best left to the experts.
Woke just before 7. It is windy and cloudy. It is Autumn here and I'm totally discombobulated. All around us are the beautiful colours of Autumn - red, gold and brown trees. And yet back home, the trees are just starting to bud (or where when we came away) and everything will by now have turned to green.
We got up out of bed when our coffee and wake up call arrived at 7.30am. Oh - and the extremely tasty home made biscotti! No sooner had we finished that, it was time for breakfast! We wanted to eat early-ish and then take a stroll. The food, as expected, was lovely. With light as a feather home made scones being the crowning glory on the buffet table. I also had some poached eggs.
Walking around the dam, we stopped to watch two herons fighting over domination of a tree and a small island in the lake. One of them eventually managed to harangue the other one off his patch!
We checked out, paid up, chatted with the owner and receptionist, complimenting them on their hotel. They told us we have to come back! I'd love to. In fact, they've even told us the best room to ask for! Funny, but I already thought we had the best room.....
Then we wandered outside to wait for our car to take us up the Sani Pass. It didn't seem as if any of the other guests in the hotel were on the same trip as nobody else was waiting. We'd been told that the driver would be there between 9.30 and 9.45. We'd filled in all our passport/border control forms.... the other exciting thing about Sani Pass is that it actually takes you from South Africa, across the border into Lesotho, an independent Kingdom.
It was almost 10 before a 4WD with "Sani Pass Tours" pulled up into the hotel drive. As the driver got out we strolled toward him and introduced ourselves. He looked at us blankly. "Sorry, I don't have any tours booked today, who did you book with?".
I explained that we made our booking via the hotel. He asked us to wait and said he'd go and have a word with the hotel people. He came back out and explained that there had been a mix up (we'd gathered that already). I'd actually changed the date of our hotel reservation (and the Sani tour) before we came out here, and unfortunately the hotel had forgotten to let him know. As far as he knew we were not due to do the trip until the next day!
But, no matter. He jumped in his car, told us to get in (apologising he'd not had chance to clean it out) handed us a "Birds of the Sani Pass" laminate and set off driving. On the way, he started telling us all about the history of the road leading into Lesotho.
http://www.sanitours.co.za/default.htm
On the way to the Pass, we saw basotho people, wrapped in brightly coloured woollen blankets, leading some horses down the road. Our guide explained that they come down to trade things, look for work or steal cattle and other animals.
Soon after, our guide took a phone call and explained that there was another car from his tour company only 5/10 minutes ahead of us, so if we didn't mind, we would be joining that tour. No problem. I was glad that he'd got his day back! Soon after we were with Viv, our new guide and Muriel - a Swiss lady who was the only other person on the trip. And off we went - up the Pass.
Sani Pass is without question the most horrendous road I've ever travelled on. The rocks, stones, water and potholes cover 100% of it. Having done the trip, I don't think I'd have been scared of self driving (in the right car!) but I don't think it would particularly enjoyable - it just takes far too long. And the concentration required would make that hard work. It takes over 3 hours to get up (including a few quick stops) and 2.5 hours to get down.
We saw reedbok, eland and angora goats on the mountains whilst going up. At the top we saw a cape vulture and a Drakensberg Rock Jumper (beautiful orange bird unique to this area). On the way back down, Viv had to stop to pick up a stunning chameleon off the road as he would just not move out of the way of our car!
At the top we went into a basotho woman's (small) hut. They have a flag system outside to show what they're trading on any particular day (beer, bread, garments, etc). We tried some local beer (all I can say is that it was "refreshing") and some excellent wholewheat bread. We learned a few words in the local language (which I have of course now forgotten) and then we were invited to peruse her collection of traditional hats which were for sale and scattered across her bed. The big hats were quite nice - not for wearing, but being woven I had in mind that they'd make good food covers if we were eating outdoors! Anyway, in the end, I just bought a tiny hat - easier to pack (and not much cheaper!). I guess it's just a little souvenir and I figured that it would be a small contribution to this lady to say thanks for letting us in her hut.
Talk about a tourist sting! Just after I picked up and paid for the hat, Viv asked if we'd maybe like to make a "small donation" to the lady. Muriel announced that she had no small change whatsover, and so Roy ended up handing over more cash "from the three of us"!
After the visit to the hut (which was pretty brief and a little less informative than I'd imagined it would be) we were taken to the Sani Top Chalet - the highest pub in Southern Africa.
http://www.sanitopchalet.co.za/index.htm
Here we drank local beer (but not the home brew!) and ordered lunch. Whilst waiting we wandered outside on the balcony and took in the fantastic views. But we didn't linger too long - the sun was out by now but there was a howling wind and it was pretty cold! Inside we ate with Muriel. Roy had sausage and mash which was pretty hearty! I got a a "Famous Sani Sausage" with bread. It actually turned out to be a giant hot dog - but the bread was home made and really good. Muriel ordered smoked trout and it looked very good.
After lunch we set off back down... Roy learned a lesson: do not eat a huge meal when you're going to be bounced around on a horrid road for 2 hours straight afterwards!
Back at the hotel by 3.30pm, we collected our car and headed off to Gail's house, as we were staying with her that night. We had a good drive - on the proper road! - there and arrived just as it was getting dark. Gail lives in Hilton, a beautiful suburb of Pietermartizburg. Or just "Maritzburg" as the locals call it. We haven't been into the town itself, and I don't think we'll get time to.
So, Gail cooked us a spag bol and we chatted with her over a bottle of red, until we were both yawning and tired and so went to bed early. Oh - we'd watched a lightning storm from the dining room. We stayed in a self contained cottage at the side of the main house. Candy and Katie were there but just joined us for dinner as they were watching movies.
