We had a long (500km) drive to Kwandwe. Right along the N2, past Port Elizabeth, Grahamstown and then inland to our game reserve. Nothing too exciting to report en route... just a long slog of a drive. We were determined to get to Kwandwe in time for the afternoon game drive so we did not stop, apart from a quick refuel at Grahamstown.
I tried to point out exciting places along the way but Roy was not over impressed by seeing (in the distance) Jeffrey's Bay, a world top 5 surfing destination. Nor was he as excited as I was when I saw a zebra from the car (in one of the first game reserves we drove past).
Arrived at Kwandwe at about 1.30pm. We checked in at the Main House and then were picked up for a 30 minute drive over to our Lodge (Great Fish River Lodge). By 2.30 we'd been greeted by one of our hosts - Simone - and were sitting down to lunch of steak sandwich. A quick look around our beautiful suite (and a very brief dip in the plunge pool) and then we were back in the main lodge to have our "induction" and set off on the first game drive.
The weather is hot today. Our ranger is Alfie, a young Afrikaner who has pretty much grown up in the bush. Proudly announces that he's never lived in a City all his life. He has a tracker called Sia who assists him, by sitting on a raised seat out at the front of the car and looking for tracks and any animals. Our companions in the jeep are a Dutch couple on their honeymoon (Alexander and Marika) and an Italian couple who speak little English. In fact, they speak little, full stop. But they are not unpleasant. In fact, the husband is a very good spotter - he sees lots of animals from his seat at the back of the jeep and calls out to let us all know when he does.
We had a good drive - looking back on my notes, I see that we spotted:
Kudu
Giraffe
Springbok
Zebra
Wildebeest
Warthog
Jackal
Baboons (who we heard howling, barking and fighting on some rocks)
Oryx
Red Hartebeest
We also saw the very rare Black Rhino - three of them lying down along side each other and then later we spotted them running along together.
Some of the best sightings, though, were after dark. We stopped for Sundowners near a lake. It was too cold for gin and tonics so I opted for coffee with a splash of brandy in it. Driving back to lodge, dusk was just turning to dark when we spotted two male giraffes "necking". This is where they push at each other - they start with their necks and then end up effectively side by side trying to barge each other out of the way. Apparently this can go on for hours - until one of them walks away and is therefore the "loser" who has failed to gain dominance. We watched them until the light completely faded. It was like a beautiful, slow motion, silent dance. Alfie said it looks elegant and gentle, but they actually really hurt each other.
Then, driving back to camp (freezing cold in the back of the open jeep - it is really chilly once that sun has gone) we were lucky to see an eagle spotted owl sitting in a tree by the edge of the track. Sia put his red filter over the spotlight - this stops the animals getting disturbed - and we watched him for a while. Then he flew off - silently and effortlessly.
I also have written in my notes that we saw a "Night bird" but I have no idea what that was? Alfie was often calling out bird names that I could not catch or remember. Oh, and we saw a huge frog on the stairs leading down to our suite when we came back from camp.
Back to camp. They met us with drinks and a roaring fire. We then quickly bathed and changed. So funny - Roy went arse over tit on the bathroom floor in the most dramatic fall I've witnessed in a long time! Luckily he was not hurt. Then back for dinner. We both ate kudu - it was delicious - the most tender meat, not unlike fillet beef.
Early to bed - our wake up call is coming at 6am tomorrow.
http://www.ccafrica.com/reserve-1-id-2-8
