We woke at 7 to watch a beautiful sunrise over the mountains. Took a short stroll down and along the ridge before breakfast. I fell over on the way and just about managed to save my new camera from serious damage! I had a few grazes (which we get paranoid about now after my incident in Greece a few years ago) but nothing bad.
Over breakfast Martin consulted with us over our plans for the day. He approved of our proposed walk around the Robberg Peninsula and said he has sent many guests out there to do it. He also suggested a few different things for the afternoon - but our only plan was to chill out by the pool if we got back early enough. It is very hot today - so hot that we can feel it at 8am - usually it is after 9 when things start to warm up.
So, we drove to Robberg and were there by 9.30am. We parked up and set off on the "short" walk which takes 2 and a half hours. Martin had mentioned some "challenging" parts of the trail involving cliffs. The "long" walk takes 4 - we felt that to be slightly ambitious.
After a short walk downhill (on rocky steps) we found ourselves literally scrambling over cliffs. With a sheer drop into the sea. We then had a nice flat section through fynbos (and even a little shade at one point) before dropping down a huge sand dune. The sand dune led down (steeply) to a beautiful "double beach" bay called Witsand. As we made our way down, Roy was some distance ahead of me. I've never been fond of walking on soft sand, and I spotted a ridge running along the middle of the dune, to my right, which was covered in footprints. I wondered if this was the trail (but there were no signposts). So I decided to take it anyway. I was being smart - there was no way I was walking all the way down to the beach if I had to walk back UP the dune to pick up the trail again. I shouted to Roy and signalled to him what I was doing. He waved and carried on to the beach.
I stood and watched him disappear in to a distant dot on the beach. He was taking of his trainers - they must have been FULL of sand by now - and walking along the beach. I carried on walking to my right. I figured that we'd catch up with each other eventually. What I hadn't reckoned on was that the closer to the sea we got, it became impossible to shout - as the crashing waves just totally drowned out any voices. I also didn't cater for the series of smaller dunes below me, which as I moved along the ridge, were now blocking my view of the beach. I could only see sections of it. I could not see Roy at all. I stood. I waited. I assumed that he'd come in to view at any minute.
After a while, still no sign. I shouted and screamed but of course this was pointless. At this point I started to get concerned. It was now blazing hot, and Roy was carrying all of our water supply. If I couldn't find him, I'd have to start to make my way back on to the trail - but I had no idea which way the trail actually went - left or right off the beach? It looked like you could get up either way. I have no sense of direction and couldn't figure out which way the car park was. I started to panic slightly. What if Roy didn't realise I'd headed back and spent all day in the hot sun looking for me? What if he got seriously sun burned or dehydrated? How was I going to climb back up to the car park with no water? My thoughts soon turned quite ridiculous - WHAT IF Roy had gone for a paddle in the sea and been swept away by a huge wave, and was now drowning in the bay at the mercy of sharks?
It all seems so stupid now, but how quickly your imagination can take hold!
Ok, so the priority was to find the trail back to the car park. Either that or go back the way we'd come. (By the way, there was not a soul around on this section of the walk, just the two of us!).
I took out the tiny map we'd been given when we paid into the car park (this is National Park and there was a fee to come in). I studied carefully. Nope, still could not work out which way to go.... but at least I learned that the beach ahead of me was called Witsand. There were three trails on the map, and I couldn't make head or tail of it. I noticed a telephone number on the back... ah, the number for Robberg Peninsula office! Luckily I had my mobile phone in my bag. I called them... the ranger must not have believed what he heard!
Me: Hello, I'm halfway down the big sand dune with Witsand ahead of me and I've lost the trail.
Ranger: You've lost the trail, madam?
Me: Yes. I need to know if I turn right or left to get back to the car park.
Ranger: Go down to the beach, turn right and you'll see the trail signs at the base of the rocks where the beach ends.
Me: Ah, thank you. I've also lost my husband but I'm sure he's just in the sand dunes somewhere. I'll call you back if I can't find him.
Ranger: stunned silence.
So, I also twigged that if I went right down on to the beach, I might stand a chance of Roy being able to see me (assuming he was still alive!). So I did. As I reached the bottom of the dunes, I saw him standing to the right of the beach, pointing at the trail signs. We walked toward each other - I put my arms out to him and wailed "I thought I'd lost you".
"Don't be so bloody daft!" he said. "I've been walking up and down those sand dunes looking for you - I'm knackered!".
So, all was well. But I was slightly put out by the lack of drama in our reunion! Didn't he realise how panicked I'd been! LOL.
We then headed back on to the cliffs for another section of scary cliff climbing. Wow, I never thought I'd do this kind of stuff, I'm a bit of a wimp when it comes to heights and things like that. Then the worst bit - the climb back up seemingly endless and massively steep steps. With plenty of water stops, I made it. What a stunning walk. And challenging. I forgot to mention the dozens of smelly and noisy seals we'd seen playing in the water beneath us en route.
Back at the car park, I opened the car and put the engine on to get the aircon going. (Did I mention how HOT it was today?). What you need to know is that this hire car has keyless ignition. So you point and press it to open the doors, and providing the "clicker" is within 4 meters of the car, it will start when you press a button on the dash. All you need to do is pop the clicker in your pocket or in the front of the car somewhere. We'd been using one of the cup holders as our repository for the clicker whilst driving.
Roy was faffing about with his trainers and socks - still trying to get the sand out - so I sat on a wall near the car and had a long drink of water. What we really both wanted was a large, cold beer and a sandwich. We'd heard of a bar called the Lookout - right on the beach at Plettenberg - so we planned to drive there for lunch.
When we got there, we just managed to bag the last parking place near the bar. We hopped out, and I went to lock the car. Hmm. Where is the clicker? I said that I thought I'd dropped it in the cup holder when I opened the car. Not there. We searched the car inside and out - no sign of the clicker. I got back in and pushed the ignition button. A message flashed up saying "Key missing". Oh no - I must have dropped it in the car park at Robberg (5 miles away). What to do? Roy went into the bar and asked for a taxi number. They gave him the details for a local firm. When I called, the guy said he was "out of town" and would not be back until 5pm. I asked if he knew of any other taxis and he said no. Back to the bar. We tried the second number they gave us (bear in mind this was an incredibly busy place and this one waitress was kind enough to stop and look in Yellow Pages to help Roy) and it was not answering. On the third visit to the bar, a barman called Bobby said that he knew of somebody and he made a phone call. Yes - his friend would be down with us in about 5 minutes. I had visions of the key either being stolen - or even worse, run over by another car in the car park! Assuming, of course, that's where it was!
So this really nice lady picked us up - we both left the hire car (there was nothing in it to steal, and lets face it, it wasn't going anywhere!) in the charge of the local car guard. As soon as we pulled into Robberg car park, a guy stepped out of his car and said "Lost something? Keys?". Yes! He had them. Thank you god. So we headed back to the Lookout and we finally got that beer and sandwich we needed! Just an hour late (and several rand lighter after paying our taxi bill and tips to the kind people in the bar who helped us!).
We then drove along to Keurboom beach, which was lovely and deserted. Finally got back to Fynbos Ridge to laze by the pool and listen to bird song and insects whilst trying to spot, photograph and identify birds.
The stars here are incredible at night. We can see the Milky Way again.
Martin had given us a couple of recommendations for dinner this evening and so we headed to Fu.shi in Plett Bay.
http://www.fushi.co.za/fushi-about.html
If you have a few minutes spare, look at the menu.... the names of each dish are superb! We had a fantastic meal here. Again, the value was superb - R400 for three courses, coffee and bottle of white wine.
Jan: Tempura Veg and Peanut Sauce, followed by Masala Kingklip with pumpkin risotto. Chocolate Chilli Fondant with pistachio brittle.
Roy: Beef strips wrapped in roti with salad, Masala Kingklip with pumpkin risotto and Mango Brownie with mango ice cream and lychees.
Wonderful. The choc chilli fondant was superb - I asked the waitress what type of chilli they put in and she said fresh red chilli. I've since made this at home and it was yummy!
Home to Fynbos Ridge. Big drive tomorrow.
