We woke at 6 and got up to see the sun rise and go lagoon/reef walking. We didn't make it to the reef (which is a lot further than it seems) but we did see starfish in amongst the many sea urchins. Apart from some locals, nobody else was out. Then I had a swim in the pool and we took our last breakfast at Plams. We said our farewells and reluctantly checked out.
We'd arranged for Zantours to stop at Jozani Forest en route to Stonetown. We were glad we had as there is a rainforest walk to see trees and a troop of red colobus monkeys - all jumping and playing right next to us. Lovely animals. Then we did a mangrove walk - there's something about mangroves that I like, although I do find them slightly mysterious. We saw a mongoose along the way.
Back in the minibus, we drove past schools and markets and then into the busy outskirts of Stonetown. Mohammed, our driver, showed us Dr Livingstone's house in the new town area and the road (an old creek) that split the old and new towns. The market was heaving and we realised that we were not going to be comfortable here walking about on our own. Stonetown is a big place and we don't know it at all - we only have this afternoon here to explore. Mohammed arranged a guide for us from a group gathered outside our hotel - the Serena Inn. He's a young guy called Jackson and only wanted $30 for a three hour walk, including our entry fees, a cold drink and Zanzibari cake!
We checked in first - they gave us the honeymoon suite on the top floor, with a HUGE balcony overlooking the sea - it had a massive hammock on it. We met Jackson just after 1 and began our walking tour of Stonetown. What a place! What a guide! We learned a lot and it was good to have the senses and brain stimulated again after our decadent lifestyle at the Palms.
As we walked around the markets, I asked Jackson if we could come out of the fish market quite quickly - as the smell was overwhelming and they were brushing up fish scales all over our feet! A huge sailfish lay on the floor in front of us and there was a distinct lack of ice/refrigeration. From this, we passed on the meat market and the chicken market - although the latter was noticeable because of the squawking of chickens being slaughtered and the river of blood running out of the entrance! As we passed, we all turned to each other and exclaimed "Chicken Market." The fruit and veg market was brilliant - an array of colour - and I finally got to smell a durian fruit, and taste red bananas. We bought some spices there, too.
We visited a shop called One Way for some soft cotton robes - similar to those we'd had in our room at Palms and really liked. I was also tempted by the Khangas on sale and bought a couple of those to bring home. Jackson told us that tourism here is increasing. We had a good look at all of the different styles of doors for which Stonetown is famous. It's a hugely cosmopolitan place, more so that I had imagined. A very eclectic mix of influences and residents. Jackson seemed to know everybody we passed, which amused me. He took us to see the slave market and chambers - very, very sobering.
After he'd treated us to coke and cake, we went to a museum. He also pointed out Freddie Mercury's birthplace. Hmm, I'm not sure - could've pointed at any old house! He was boasting about Osibisa having played a gig in a small bar we passed by - and after a few minutes trying to remember their big hit, we both burst out singing the song at the same time! "Everybody, do what you're doing, Smile will bring a sunshine day". Funny! And now, every time I hear that song, I smile and remember my incredible honeymoon, Stonetown and our wonderful guide, Jackson.
At 4pm we arrived back at Serena Inn, having seen so much in just 3 hours! We'd done more today than in the last week! We went for a swim, a Tusker beer and our last hour of African sun. Then we watched the dhows sailing by from our balcony and got ready for dinner.
We left our hotel to find Emerson & Green hotel, where we had reservations in the Tower Top restaurant. This is the tallest building in Stonetown. We'd decided to use $$ gifted by our friends Lynn and Doug for this treat. We found our way there without any problems, but didn't stop to shop as we wanted to be on the roof top at sunset. Needless to say, the view was amazing. So was the food - and the ambience (barring a noisy 4-some of Americans and South Africans behind us who were playing oneupmanship all evening). A solo violinist played beautiful, melodic and slightly melancholic tunes as were were served 8 courses. We started with cocktails - I had a Dawa: cloves, honey, cinnamon sugar, limes and Tanzanian gin. We then had nibbles - nuts, onion rings and cassava chips. Then our first starter of poppadom with guacamole and olives. Then, a wonderful gazpacho. Next, octopus and kingfish masala with cinnamon rice and veggies. I tried not to recall the fish market! I did try some octopus - it was "ok". Then, fillet beef stuffed with veg and served with mash and baked green tomatoes. Egg custart tart topped with coconut and almonds. Passion fruit sorbet. And coffee. Unbelievable! We had south african rose and white wines. All this for just $70. As we left, they tried to send us home in a tuk tuk - I refused because I have a thing about another human being pulling me along. Doesn't seem right to me. Instead, they sent a hotel porter to walk us back to our hotel. Stonetown does change after dark and is slightly sinister! Another tip... next time, we'll bring plenty of $1 bills! We went straight to bed - we have a 5am alarm call.
