Chef Lars must have overslept, because the scones weren't ready when we arrived for breakfast at 7.45am!! Never mind, toast and croissants were just as good. Hours later, I'd be regretting eating them. We were due to be picked up at 10am but due to the inevitable mix up, it ended up being 11am. No big deal.
Our driver told us it took 2.5 hours to get to Palms from Ras Nungwi. It went so fast, though, as there was so much to see along the way. Remember that we hadn't done this trip in daylight. It was amazing just how lush and verdant the landscape is. Really, really tropical. And the villages are all quite different - dull, drab Nungwi - the most ugly village in the most beautiful setting . Red, brown Kendwa, which seemed more in keeping with its surroundings. We passed 4 or 5 young boys on a cart being pulled by an ox. I'm trying to remember what else we saw. Women out working and men lying about under thatched roof open sided huts. I don't know what the purpose of these huts was other than to provide resting places for lazy men. Why is it that the women seemed to do all the work? We passed several schools - also open sided. As we got to the centre of the island the feel of everything changed. First we passed through spice plantations. We saw women picking things in the fields and also drying out their spices in large rectangles outside their houses. The variety and colour of the kangas that they wear is incredible. Then we moved into a very commercial crossroads. The traffic increased, and so did our driver's risk taking as he hurtled past bikes and daladalas, beeping his horn constantly. "Careless drivers!" He announced, after one near miss when both he and a tourist minibus had refused to give way to the other. Apparently it was the other guy's fault for not signalling correctly. Also, the pushbikes seemed reluctant to move out of the middle of the road. Our driver showed us a pavement - the first one I think I'd seen on Zanzibar - and said it had been built for bikes but that they preferred to stay in the road! I know where I'd have been!
As we got closer to Stonetown we passed miles of shops, selling all sorts of things: mattresses, shoes, hats, even billy cans made out of empty tins with a handle attached. And we saw a huge outdoor market with enormous piles of fruit and coconuts everywhere. Eventually, bypassing Stonetown, we hit the road to the South and East Coast. Things seemed to get more upmarket. The roads were better - in fact, one was lined by mango trees either side, and had apparently been planted by or for a Sultan. Even the school kids were posher here - with cream and blue uniforms. The girls looked like little nuns! Some were carrying books on their heads and they look so graceful and confident of not dropping them. Another common site was bundles of firewood - on heads, on motorbikes - you name it. I think that the villagers sell it.
The villages became fewer and the green tropical /palm tree lined roads turned in to Jozani Forest. This is the last rainforest in Africa and home to red colobus monkeys which aren't found elsewhere. We finally reach the bumpy road to the beach hotels. Luckily we're only on it for about 15 minutes before we pass Breezes Beach Club and draw into the Palms. Passing two security checks (this is worse than the constant police checks on the main road where they're constantly checking for licenses, road tax and insurance.) As we pull in, a welcoming party greets us. A butler, Ali, takes us to meet Lillian, the assistant manager. She sits us down over orange juice and explains how things work. Then she shows us to our villa. I think we played it fairly cool until she'd gone. Then we started leaping around like kids at Christmas! The place was so huge, it took us 10 minutes to explore. And wow, it was incredible. Absolutely gorgeous. I won't go into detail yet!
Then it was time for lunch. Where to start? There was a choice of two starters and two mains. We opted for lobster salad and tandoori chicken. Lobster like this, I've never had. Now I understand why people rave on it. Even before all of that they brought out garlic bread and guacamole. The chicken, with naan and raita, was delicious. Followed by cinnamon ice cream. Washed down with Tusker and Kili beers. Now, how DO we work up an appetite for dinner??
I think I'm going to like the Palms. It is so peaceful and the staff and other guests (there are only 6 villas here in total) seem lovely.
We took a little sun this afternoon and then went for a walk along the long, unspoiled beach. The sun was low and there was a strong breeze - lovely for walking. We got a little hassle from a local kid who was trying to sell us a lift on his pushbike or a photograph of himself! Budding entrepreneur! A gang of teenage village kids came in on a dhow whooping and yelling as they ran up to the edge of the village. Shouting in Swahili, one of them, a particularly exuberant chap, began beating the ground with palm leaves. We watched and waited with baited breath to see what happened next. Surely they'd landed a monster catch out at sea? Nothing emerged from the boat, and so eventually we wandered off, disappointed. Must have just been boys having fun. Another teenager stopped us to ask if we lived near Manchester United! We headed back to Palms, stopping at the Breezes dive centre first to check out snorkelling trips.
As we wandered up our path to Frangipani Villa (somebody must have known I love that flower!) we were just behind the butler bringing our sundowners. A cocktail called French 75 - something to do with WW1 and getting married! He'd also brought canapes of fish fingers and tartare sauce. Does the food never stop here? We had a dip in the jacuzzi on our front porch and got ready for dinner. The bar was quiet, we'd wrongly assumed that maybe guests would gather here to chat before eating. Never mind, we sat on the colonial style veranda with spritzer (Roy) and G&T (me) and a bowl of popcorn! We had a good natter before going through to eat. Our starters of Prawn Sushi and veg Tempura were great. Oh, and the crispy bread/tapenade was also good. Mains were unbelievable - half a duck with plum sauce for Roy and a huge piece of coconut dusted fish for me. With veggies and rice - we hardly touched the rice. Dessert was flambeed banana and pineapple with ice cream. Delicious! Good strong coffee and Baileys finished us off nicely. Everybody else seemed to be back in their villa by 9.30pm... we retired just after 10 to watch tv.
No ocean crashing outside to keep us awake tonight........
